Off the beaten track - Sandsfoot Castle

Just a mile or so from the Gor Blimey that is Weymouth is an enchanted spot that remains forever peaceful. 
Sandsfoot Castle and Gardens is the preserve of the locals and has wide and airy views over the waters of Portland Harbour to Portland itself.

The castle ruins, though artily perched on a low cliff next to the water's edge, can't by any stretch of the imagination be called picturesque, though the setting makes up for this.
It is one of two fortifications built by well known fatty Henry VIII in 1547 on either side of Portland Harbour in response to the threat from Catholic Spain. It was constructed with stone taken from the newly dissolved abbeys at a cost of going on £4,000.00 (around 1.5 million today)...it never actually saw action (don't tell the kids) and by the end of the 17c it was already a ruin, its stone robbed in turn to build Weymouth Bridge. By 1930 was closed to the public.

Recently the Heritage Lottery stepped in to help restore it so that once more it is possible to wander amongst the remaining stone work and peer though gun ports checking out the Spaniards as the defenders once did.

The gardens, landscaped Torquay municipal style, are a pleasant place to sit and, guess what?...the last part in the heavenly jigsaw... lattes are on hand in the ubiquitous tearoom.

A short wander downhill brings you to a humble little beach,

 again the preserve of a few locals and the odd dog walker or kayaker.

Those pesky Spaniards shall not pass...

Food with views - The Jailhouse Cafe

Ok, admit it!...I've done stretch in prison...about and hour and a half all told, including remission for a good appetite.

A winding switchback road climbs higher and higher up the side of the Isle of Portland until finally the forbidding stone gates of the Verne prison rise up in front of you.

Passing through the grim stone portal you emerge onto a plateau at the Island's very highest point; here is journey's end. The Jailhouse Cafe is an enlightened venture which gives risk-assessed prison inmates a feel for worthwhile work in the community.

Though the cafe is no gourmet experience the food is adequate and staff are helpful to a T. Each and every one seems built like a brick s**t house, pumped up to bursting, presumably as a result of long hours heaving weights in the prison gym.

On a fine day the views from the lawn are breathtaking, stretching all the way to the Purbecks shimmering in the blue distance, while below massive granite breakwaters girdle Portland harbour; another communal convict effort but of an earlier age.
What on earth would those Victorians lags breaking the granite for the breakwaters far below have thought of their present day heirs mincing around balancing a cappuccino in each paw?...

The Verne was originally built as a citadel to protect Portland Harbour

Click here for info about The Jailhouse

Hills and views- The Hardy Monument

The monument in the Autumn mists

High on a hill near Dorchester, and visible for many miles around, stands a monument to a man chiefly remembered for kissing a sailor.
The Hardy monument, a rather squat ugly edifice, was erected in 1844 to the memory of the other Hardy, Trafalgar veteran Admiral Thomas Masterman Hardy.

So kissable....

Hardy, born at Long Bredy in1769 lived close by at Portesham. 
He was captain of the Victory at Trafalgar when his dying friend, Nelson, uttered those three fateful words, 'Kiss me Hardy,' so consigning the poor bloke to be the butt of schoolboy jokes for eternity.






There is another more prurient version of these events, by the way, with Nelson's dying words being interpreted as 'Kismet, Hardy'... meaning...'Fate, Hardy.'
Away from the smoke of battle the views across Dorset are breathtaking. Footpaths radiate to all points of the compass as do bridleways; so bring you dog or mountain bike or even a mountain biking dog.

Hills and Views - Durlston Country Park

 Durlston Country Park sits high on the Purbecks above Swanage. It possesses probably the best views for the least amount of effort in Dorset and...better sit down at this point...it's free.

Durleston Castle - Knights Templar...?

The Durlston estate originally belonged to George Burt, local boy made good, who made his money helping his uncle John Mowlem in London.  If the surname sounds familiar it is because uncle founded  Mowlems, one of the biggest Victorian civil contractors which survives to this day.
George had dreams of putting Swanage on the map and of his schemes was to create an upmarket housing development at Durleston.

The centre piece Durlston Castle was built in a typical Victorian mish-mash of styles. Alas, the castle was the only part of the plan ever to be realised. 

...or Italian Rennaisance?

Burt also arrived in Swanage with a whole bootful of large architectural antiques picked up from Mowlem developments from around the Victorian capital. These he  sprinkled around Swanage and explain the appearance of typical London cast iron bollards that are dotted incongruously around the castle grounds.

Durleston has recently been the subject of a brilliant piece of renovation with the castle now restored to its full glory, serving as an excellent interpretation centre and cafe.

The view from the cafe terrace is stunning, on a sunny day you really could imagine yourself sipping your cappuccino in Amalfi. 

Below the castle stands an iconic giant stone globe also installed by Burt and subject of a million happy holiday snaps over the last century.

The cliff path winds on past the quaintly titled Tilly Whim caves, in reality old quarry workings. These were once open to the public but are now unfortunately deemed unsafe. Beyond the view encompasses the whole of the Purbecks, while at your feet soft, springy turf beckons you to stretch out and simply...be.

Durleston lighthouse

Hill and views 2- The Knoll

The coast road between Bridport and Abbotsbury is one big viewpoint.. For ages, though,  I would catch a glimpse of this lonely, derelict building perched high on a hill above Bexington as I sped by.

Received wisdom somewhere down the line told me it was a fisherman's lookout for spotting shoals of fish. Whether this is true or not I can find no mention of the fact.




It's a romantic idea anyway and it was perfectly self contained with even a little fireplace to keep warm by. The Knoll is easy to reach as long as you don't miss the turning . A few minute scramble takes you to a thoughtfully placed bench at the feet of the little building.

The views are spectacular though the shoals long gone... served battered with chips, no doubt.

Food with views 2

FOR FOR YOUR REGULAR DOSE OF DORSET ENTER YOUR EMAIL IN THE BOX ON THE RIGHT!
Two contrasting places to munch... one thing in common, views...



Quiddles Fortuneswell Portland DT5 1LY 

Quiddles is housed in a thoughtful piece of modern architecture (how rare is that?) with a definite deco feel. It's a couple of hundred yards from the (free!) car park and right on the coast path and close to the Tout Quarry sculpture park. It opens from 9.00am seven days a week in the summer making it a fantastic place for a ye olde English breakfast, seafood lunches and cream teas in the afternoon.

Close by is another bistro with an equally spectacular view

Down House Farm Higher Eype Bridport DT6 6AH 

Down House Farm is reached by following a long bumpy track into the middle of nowhere... chickens and a cockerel let you know you've arrived. The cafe is an oasis of peace amid lush rolling farmland and the food unpretentious and homemade and uses the farm's own organic meat, herbs and vegetables. 

If it's just a cappuccino you want newspapers are thoughtfully provided.

Hills and Views 4 - Stonebarrow (SY412930)

Lofty Stonebarrow Hill was originally part of the coaching route between Bridport and Charmouth; abandoned because of the impracticably steep ascents and descents.

 Today it is still popular with horse riders, the odd jogger and dogs walking their owners. The area is part of the National Trust's Golden Cap estate and as their car park is sited at the top of the hill, you get the view without the struggle...except the struggle for change...even here you have to pay parking charges..

To the right in the blue distance is Lyme to the left rises Golden Cap, Dorset's highest coastal point; while at your feet wind acres of paths and a million picnic spots. In Autumn you'll find blackberries in abundance.

Hills and views 3-Pilsdon Pen SY414009

View across redundant trig point.

Braving hail, wind and then sunshine we scrambled to the top of Pilsdon Pen for a flask of tea and a breathtaking 360 degree view. The hill, the highest point in Dorset, hosted yet another Iron Age high rise until eviction by the Romans.

Ordnance Survey trig point silhouetted against the approaching hail storm

Its hummocky summit is just a short walk from the road and bears witness to various degrees of occupation: Bronze Age burial mounds, the remains of a medieval rabbit warren, and silhouetted against the skyline, another poignant relic, an Ordnance Survey trig point now consigned to history by the arrival of gps.

Needless to say, it's another satisfying location for kite flyers, dog walkers and the odd jogger.

There is a God!! The sun puts his hat on!

Food views 1- Harbour Lights

The Harbour Lights bistro/restaurant which overlooks the Portland Marina is a great way to begin a walk around the mysterious Isle of Portland or to set off for a kayak across Portland Harbour.  On a clear day the outside deck rewards you with breathtaking views of the Purbecks enlivened by kite surfers for which the harbour is a cherished venue. 

The restaurant stands at the centre of the 2012 Olympic sailing complex and is a modern relaxed place with lots of outside tables to enjoy the views. It is open for breakfast, lunch and evening meals.

On a sunny Sunday it has a relaxed, dare I say it, Californian feel, as healthy cycling and jogging types arrive, sip orange juice and strike lycra poses.

www.theboatthatrocks.co.uk

Hills and views 2- Lamberts Castle

A break in the weather and an early start saw us blowing the cobwebs away on Lamberts Castle. 
It is an Iron Age fort, as are most of Dorset's high points and until quite recent times, the site of a yearly fair. It is a favourite with dog walkers, horse riders, kite flyers and of course, us. 

The hill divides into two completely different environments. On one side paths run through a woodland of fantastically gnarled trees whose cover of moss makes them glow a vibrant green in the morning sunlight. A great place for chasing hobbits into hollow trunks, white rabbits down holes and for kids to have proper, rather than digital fun.

The other side is wide-open hillside with birdseye views that encompass most of Dorset. There are even seats from which to enjoy them. A perfect place for feeding your sandwiches to the passing mutts.