Off the beaten track - Sandsfoot Castle

Just a mile or so from the Gor Blimey that is Weymouth is an enchanted spot that remains forever peaceful. 
Sandsfoot Castle and Gardens is the preserve of the locals and has wide and airy views over the waters of Portland Harbour to Portland itself.

The castle ruins, though artily perched on a low cliff next to the water's edge, can't by any stretch of the imagination be called picturesque, though the setting makes up for this.
It is one of two fortifications built by well known fatty Henry VIII in 1547 on either side of Portland Harbour in response to the threat from Catholic Spain. It was constructed with stone taken from the newly dissolved abbeys at a cost of going on £4,000.00 (around 1.5 million today)...it never actually saw action (don't tell the kids) and by the end of the 17c it was already a ruin, its stone robbed in turn to build Weymouth Bridge. By 1930 was closed to the public.

Recently the Heritage Lottery stepped in to help restore it so that once more it is possible to wander amongst the remaining stone work and peer though gun ports checking out the Spaniards as the defenders once did.

The gardens, landscaped Torquay municipal style, are a pleasant place to sit and, guess what?...the last part in the heavenly jigsaw... lattes are on hand in the ubiquitous tearoom.

A short wander downhill brings you to a humble little beach,

 again the preserve of a few locals and the odd dog walker or kayaker.

Those pesky Spaniards shall not pass...

By George !...George III's holiday snaps Pt.10

More tittle tattle from the shoreline...

George III's king-sized bathing machine

Artistic Dorset - John Constable

John Constable first visited Dorset in 1816 as the the guest of his close friend Reverend Fisher (later Bishop of Salisbury) who officiated at his marriage.

Weymouth Bay from the Downs

Fisher then invited the newly weds to honeymoon at his vicarage in Osmington Mills. 

View of Weymouth from the downs today

"...My house commands a singularly beautiful view, and you may study from your very window. You shall have a plate set by the side of your easel, without your sitting down to dinner. We never see company, and I have brushes paints and canvas in abundance.

Of an evening, we sit over our autumnal fireside, read a sensible book, perhaps a sermon, and after prayers, get us to bed..."

View of Osmington by Constable

The couple spent six memorable weeks there with Constable producing many sketches some of which he went on to finish in oils.

In 1820 and 1823 Constable again visited Dorset as the guest of Fisher who was now vicar of Gillingham where he painted his celebrated view of Gillingham Mill.

By George!...George III's holiday snaps Pt 9

FOR YOUR DAILY DOSE OF DORSET ENTER YOUR EMAIL IN THE BOX ON THE RIGHT!

You're on your hols in Weymouth, you've pulled your bathers on, donned that water resistant wig, convinced yourself that the water's lovely; when this happens.....who'd be King George III...

Georgian Weymouth

Food with views 3 - Beach Caffs

If you're tired of all the pretentious food-a-la-twaddle here are some back-to-basics honest-to-goodness caffs with fantastic views...

The Lobster Pot, Portland Bill, DT5 2JT
You'll find the Lobster Pot at the very tip of Portland in the shadow of its iconic red and white lighthouse and the boiling waters of the race.

The Oasis, Osmington Beach, DT3 6PN 
The Oasis lies at the opposite end of the Weymouth Bay ; far away from the broiling tattooed hoi poloi. Tables are actually on beach.

The Oasis

The Lookout, Bowleaze Cove, DT3 6PL

The Lookout has a million dollar view of the Art Deco Riveria Hotel and of the Purbecks disappearing into the far distance beyond. An outside seat is essential.

View from The lookout

By George! George III's holiday snaps Pt.8

When George III donned the royal bathing trunks for his daily swim at Weymouth he was faced with all the complexities of a trip to the moon. Seawater had been promoted for its health benefits since the 1730s and was a serious business. It included early morning bathes, drinking half a pint of seawater and a massage with seaweed. Afterwards a half hour in bed was recommended followed by outdoor exercise.

'I was terribly frightened, & really thought I should never have recovered from the Plunge-I had not Breath enough to speak for a minute or two, the shock was beyond expression great-but after I got back to the machine, I presently felt myself in a Glow that was delightful-it is the finest feeling in the World,-& will induce me to Bathe as often as will be safe ' Fanny Burney 



To serve the modesty of the bathers bathing machines made their appearance; changing huts on wheels dragged out into the briny by horse. In George III's time they were equipped with retractable umbrella-like contraption, known as the 'tilt' which reached to the water meaning that the swimmer was basically immersed in a claustrophobic tent.
It didn't end there though, each swimmer was outfitted in a voluminous calico nightshirt and was accompanied be one or two burly attendants often local fishermen or their wives. The male attendants known as  'bathers' and the females, 'dippers'.

One of these dippers, Martha Gunn of  Brighton spent most of her 88 years up to her chin in the briny and became something of a

minor celebrity with a whole range of ephemera featuring her appearing,  from satirical prints to toby jugs and the wonderful portrait above.




She became close to George, Prince of Wales and enjoyed special privileges including free access to the kitchens of the Royal Pavilion.

By George! George III's holiday snaps Pt.7

When the King descended on Weymouth so did the Quality. Hard to believe but Weymouth became the  kingdom's style and entertainment capital. The Assembly rooms and theatre served up the latest entertainment.

Rules for the Weymouth Assembly Rooms

 Not to be forgotten, though, was real the reason for being here at Weymouth the first place,  getting one's feet wet...

Always someone with their hand out...

Dorset History 1-The Easton Massacre

High above Portland can be found the church of St George, its classical proportions make it an architectural gem worth seeking in its own right but its graveyard is also special.

Its weathered memorials standing just a stone's throw from the very edge of the quarry, are unusually elaborate and evocative.

In the present day and age, when atrocities take place far from home one particular memorial bears witness to a violent sequence of events that took place here on Portland over 200 years ago which ended in the violent death of twenty one year old Mary Way.

 Her gravestone tells of her death as a result of wounds sustained after being shot by the Press Gang. The incident took place April 2 1803, and is remembered to this day as the Easton Massacre.

It all began on the night before her death when men from the Frigate, Eagle, had come ashore and unsuccessfully attempted to press Nicholas Way. He was the captain of a small vessel and therefore exempt from the press (as indeed all the able bodied men on the island were).

Undeterred, at 5.00 am the next morning the Eagle's captain landed at Easton with a heavily armed force of some thirty men and officers. The early hour was chosen to catch the islanders while they slept. One of the first men they apprehended was their previous night’s victim, Nicholas Way along with Henry Wiggat. By this time the villagers, woken by the furore, ran for cover in panic. As the Press Gang chased the villagers uphill they found their way was bravely blocked by Zachariah White. Demanding the source of their authority he discovered that the warrant, signed by a Mayor of Weymouth, had no legal authority on the island.

 

The sailors, though, ignored his protestations and moved on. 
As the situation began to grow ugly they formed a defensive line. When they attempted to snatch yet another islander, the crowd snapped. In the ensuing scuffles a pistol, whether accidentally or not, was fired by the captain. This was the prearranged signal to open fire. In the ensuing chaos three islanders died instantly, shot through the head. Two more, one of them Mary Way, fell fatally wounded to the ground, a bullet lodged in her back. The pressgang who had also sustained casualties then retired to their ship taking their hard-won captives.

St Georges stands on the very edge of a quarry

An official enquiry into the events was eventually held but no convictions were ever made (plus ca change...!) while the involvement of a Weymouth JP only served to sustain their historical enmity between the two communities.

A short walk to the church

St Georges can be made the destination of a short but rewarding walk. The headstone of Mary Way is here, as is the doubly unfortunate William Hansford who died in the Great Storm of November 1824 when the sea came over the Chesil Beach and broke his leg after which his house fell on him and killed him.
Parking in Chiswell follow the signs for the coast path which takes you steeply uphill giving you breathtaking views of Chesil Bank and the Jurassic Coast. As the path levels out a diversion to the left will take you into the Tout Quarry Sculpture Park where sculptures lie amid the undergrowth like the relics of a lost civilisation. Continue along the path to reach the church.
There and back is just over 3 miles.

Capturing Dorset- J.W.T. Turner

FOR YOUR REGULAR DOSE OF DORSET ENTER YOUR EMAIL IN THE BOX ON THE RIGHT!

A surprising number of celebrated artists have visited Dorset over the centuries ( That isn't an invitation Damien...) 

Turner was a prolific painter and made many painting tours throughout Britain and the Continent.

Lyme Bay

He travelled almost every year and in 1811 toured the southwest producing a series of paintings which in turn were reproduced as a book of engravings entitled 'Picturesque Views of the Southern Coast of England.'

Poole Harbour

 While in Dorset, he painted many of the landmarks still recognisable today; including Corfe Castle, Lulworth Cove, Poole Harbour, Lyme Regis and Weymouth.

Weymouth Bay

Beaches of the Jurassic Coast Pt. 2

Church Ope Cove-The only real beach on Portland and only reached by foot. It has no facilities except, mercifully, a toilet. A peaceful spot presided over by a ruined castle and church.

Weymouth on one of its quieter days

Weymouth-The Naples of Dorset certainly lives up to its name in summer. A beautiful azure sea curves away to the chalk cliffs of the Purbecks shimmering in the heat haze.
The fine sand is unequalled for sand castles (ask the sand sculptor who has a pitch on the beach). The shallow water is perfect for toddlers... in fact it is the quintessential English resort with donkeys, swing boats and candy floss. It has a wide esplanade for promenading. Its biggest blight, though, is the traffic, and parking is always at a premium; so plan to get there early.

Ringstead-An unspoilt beach with just a few holiday bungalows and a tearoom. It is a wide curve of shingle beach with good safe shallows and a decidedly upmarket feel. Once again, lovely views of Portland, and gentle walks on to the cliffs when you have finished frying. The eastern end tends to be used for discreet nude sunbathing.

Durdle Door early morning

Durdle Door-Two long shingle beaches are separated by the rockoutcrop of Durdle Door. Access is down a long path from the car park at the edge of a caravan park and the nearest WCs... Avoid loading yourself with too many deckchairs etc.; it is a long haul back to the top.

Lulworth Cove-Like Durdle Door, Lulworth is an icon of the Purbecks. The beach forms an almost full circle broken by just a narrow entrance. It is mostly shingle and child friendly. Although it gets crowded where the road finishes, a short walk along soon shakes off the hordes.

Kimmeridge at twilight

Kimmeridge-A long lane brings you to this wide cove backed by low cliffs. Rocky outcrops make it one of the best places for rock pooling. Constant activity surrounds the jetties as it is a popular destination for divers. There is a marine centre and WC. An ice cream van in the summer is the only source of food so bring a picnic.

Studland-A four mile stretch of gently shelving sandy beach owned by the National Trust. Superb for children. At the far end is a nudist beach for those who like to feel the sand between a bit more than their toes.

Swanage-Traditional holiday resort. A wide esplanade fronted by a long, sandy beach perfect for children. Pedalo hire is available.Bournemouth-The smooth sandy strand stretches for several miles all the way to Poole. It is backed by a wide car-free promenade along which you can walk or cycle (except in high summer) and refuel where necessary from the many kiosks and snack bars when you've had your fill of sand and sea. It is also just a short hop from sea front to the high street and its large department stores.

By George! George III's holiday snaps pt.7

Holidaytime isn't all fun and frolics- never more so than when second homer George III visited his Weymouth pad.

There were an awful lot of people who would have liked to get their evil mitts on that plump royal personage. Those Frenchies, for a start, were everywhere. As a result the town, the bay and surrounding hills bristled with military might...

William Pitt the wily PM

Then there was the tedious business of running the country-First thing every a.m there would be the PM...

... and discipline was not just confined to refusing the second ice-cream.

Dorset folklore - 'Oh R****T!'

ENTER YOUR EMAIL ON THE RIGHT FOR YOUR DAILY DOSE OF DORSET

Portlanders, as they would proudly admit, have aways been a race apart. Separated fom the mainland by  a narrow causeway and before that, by just a ferry, it's understandable that they developed  their own distinct traditions.
One of these refers to mentioning the word 'rabbit' or rather, in this case, not mentioning the word rabbit.
No one is certain how the taboo first arose, though one explanation surmises that appearance of fleeing rabbits in large numbers was a sure portent of lethal rockfalls in the quarries for which Portland was famous. Consequently, over time, the cuddly critters gradually became associated with bad luck in general.
As a small aside, Portlanders seem to have been suspicious of everything, even their fellow men. 
In a hobbit-like fashion the population arranged themselves into three distinct communities; Tophillers (who, obviously lived at the top of the island, Underhillers (I'll let you work that one out...) and finally Kimberlins (the rest)...as for Weymouth folk...best draw a veil at this point...