Frankenstein's Mother

The creator of one of English literature's most memorable monsters is laid to rest just behind the Bournemouth branch of T K Maxx. In the churchyard of St Paul's to be precise.

Mary Shelley, author of the novel Frankenstein was the 19th century's wild child; her unconventionality being fostered by her father, free-thinker William Godwin. Godwin's status as a radical meant that most of the leading intellectuals of the day passed through his household, profoundly influencing Mary.
In 1814, one of these, an impoverished poet, Percy Bysshe Shelley fell headlong in love with 17 year old Mary. Although he was already married, it did not stop them from eloping to France leaving behind Percy's pregnant wife. If this wasn't scandalous enough they were accompanied by Mary's half sister. Money problems soon forced them to return.
An unmarried Mary now found she was pregnant, though
the fortuitous suicide of Percy Shelley's wife left them free to marry. Mary's baby girl lived just a few months. Within a short time Mary was pregnant yet again and this time gave birth to a boy.

Once again the three of them plus baby set off across Europe ending up in Geneva where they spent the summer with Lord Byron whose liaison with Mary's half sister was to leave her pregnant. During a bout of particularly bad weather the party passed the time telling ghost stories until Byron suggested they try to write their own.
While everyone else's efforts are now forgotten, Mary's creation, 'Frankenstein', went on to become the enduring classic. With Percy's encouragement she expanded the short story to a novel which was eventually published in 1818 as 'Frankenstein, or The Modern Prometheus'. . It was an immediate success. She was just 21. The pressure of creditors doomed the Shelleys to leave England yet again eventually settling in Italy whose liberal climate enabled Mary to pursue her philosophy of free love among her acquaintances

Then tragedy struck. Percy Shelley's yacht was wrecked in a storm and Percy drowned, his body cremated on the beach where it was found. 

The idyll had ended. 

Within a year, penniless, Mary returned to England to scrape a living from her writing. Mary Shelly never remarried and devoted the rest of her life to writing further novels and preserving her husband's memory. She died at aged fifty three with experiences to fill several lifetimes. 

Her wish, to be buried with her father at St Pancras churchyard was never carried out. Instead her son buried her near his home in Bournemouth where she now lies almost forgotten under a drab Victorian monument just yards from the main street.

There is a final macabre twist, though, when Mary's writing box was opened it was found to contain Percy Shelley's heart, wrapped in his poem 'Adonais'. It now lies with her.

Beaches of the Jurassic Coast Pt. 2

Church Ope Cove-The only real beach on Portland and only reached by foot. It has no facilities except, mercifully, a toilet. A peaceful spot presided over by a ruined castle and church.

Weymouth on one of its quieter days

Weymouth-The Naples of Dorset certainly lives up to its name in summer. A beautiful azure sea curves away to the chalk cliffs of the Purbecks shimmering in the heat haze.
The fine sand is unequalled for sand castles (ask the sand sculptor who has a pitch on the beach). The shallow water is perfect for toddlers... in fact it is the quintessential English resort with donkeys, swing boats and candy floss. It has a wide esplanade for promenading. Its biggest blight, though, is the traffic, and parking is always at a premium; so plan to get there early.

Ringstead-An unspoilt beach with just a few holiday bungalows and a tearoom. It is a wide curve of shingle beach with good safe shallows and a decidedly upmarket feel. Once again, lovely views of Portland, and gentle walks on to the cliffs when you have finished frying. The eastern end tends to be used for discreet nude sunbathing.

Durdle Door early morning

Durdle Door-Two long shingle beaches are separated by the rockoutcrop of Durdle Door. Access is down a long path from the car park at the edge of a caravan park and the nearest WCs... Avoid loading yourself with too many deckchairs etc.; it is a long haul back to the top.

Lulworth Cove-Like Durdle Door, Lulworth is an icon of the Purbecks. The beach forms an almost full circle broken by just a narrow entrance. It is mostly shingle and child friendly. Although it gets crowded where the road finishes, a short walk along soon shakes off the hordes.

Kimmeridge at twilight

Kimmeridge-A long lane brings you to this wide cove backed by low cliffs. Rocky outcrops make it one of the best places for rock pooling. Constant activity surrounds the jetties as it is a popular destination for divers. There is a marine centre and WC. An ice cream van in the summer is the only source of food so bring a picnic.

Studland-A four mile stretch of gently shelving sandy beach owned by the National Trust. Superb for children. At the far end is a nudist beach for those who like to feel the sand between a bit more than their toes.

Swanage-Traditional holiday resort. A wide esplanade fronted by a long, sandy beach perfect for children. Pedalo hire is available.Bournemouth-The smooth sandy strand stretches for several miles all the way to Poole. It is backed by a wide car-free promenade along which you can walk or cycle (except in high summer) and refuel where necessary from the many kiosks and snack bars when you've had your fill of sand and sea. It is also just a short hop from sea front to the high street and its large department stores.

Dorset Cycling - A family cycle from Poole to Bournemouth

Poole Quay- Brownsea Island in the distance

Let's get this straight, I loathe riding anywhere near cars. It's an unequal battle. It's also a scandal that in this day and age so little is done to separate 2 tons of murderous machine from we soft-shelled human beings. Believe it or not, though, it's still possible to find on-road routes where you can happily cycle as a family for mile upon mile with just the barest glimpse of those blooming gas guzzlers.

The easiest of these routes takes you along the waters edge from Poole by cycle path and then along Bournemouth's magnificent six mile esplanade to Bournemouth Pier.

Next to Poole Marina
The entire trip, around 12 miles return, is a visual feast,and it's virtually flat so that even the most unfit can walk it ... er... cycle it. The esplanade's open to cycles except for the months of July and August.

Bournemouth's six miles of sandiness

We began by parking at Poole Quay and had a coffee gazing out to the silhouette of Brownsea Island shimmering in the haze. Mounting our trusty steeds we sped along the water's edge to Sandbanks finding time to laugh at the futile efforts of kite surfers and watch tiny yachts skip across the glittering waves. 

A cycle lane took us through the traffic to the beginning of Bournemouth Esplanade thronging with people taking advantage of that rarest of things, sunshine. There was a distinct tinge of California as rollerbladers shot past and joggers pounded the beach.
On reaching Bournemouth we refuelled at the conveniently situated Harry Ramsden's before returning the way we'd come.

Innovative cycle direction post

(It you fancy you can combine this with a visit to the amazing Russell-Coates Museum and Gallery not five minutes walk from the pier.
Russell-Coates Museum and Gallery

Sandbanks

Bournemouth

Return at twilight

Dorset Museums 8-the Russell-Cotes Museum and Gallery

           ENTER YOUR EMAIL ON THE RIGHT FOR YOUR DAILY DOSE OF DORSET

If your idea of Bournemouth is a bit gor-blimey, you're mostly right; but then, perched on the cliff, high above the pier and the cloying aroma of chip fat and sun oil stands the town's last bastion of culture...The Russell-Cotes Museum.

I shad no inkling of this hidden gem (and it is gem) until just a couple of years ago yet it houses a world class collection of

Victorian painters from Rossetti and the pre Raphaelites to Landseer and on to amazing pieces created by daubers I've never even heard of. In fact it forms a short sharp anthology of the best of Victorian art.

The collection was assembled by manic collectors Merton and Annie Russell-Cotes and is housed  in the opulent villa Merton built on the cliff-top as a present for his wife. 

The building is an exceptional monument to late Victorian taste and for that reason alone would be worth the visit. As old man Merton said, 'I made up my mind to construct it architecturally to combine the Renaissance with Italian and old Scottish baronial styles' How did he resist chucking in a pyramid for good measure... that's Victorians for you...

The Russell-Cotes were also avid globe-trotters and souvenirs of their jaunts cover Australasia, America, India, the Near East and Africa as well as the Pacific Islands. 

Great art bringeth forth great hunger so if you want to sample a further masterpiece in oils. Harry Ramsden's fish and chips is but a short walk down the hill - just follow your nose.
www.russell-cotes.bournemouth.gov.uk