Hills and Views - Durlston Country Park

 Durlston Country Park sits high on the Purbecks above Swanage. It possesses probably the best views for the least amount of effort in Dorset and...better sit down at this point...it's free.

Durleston Castle - Knights Templar...?

The Durlston estate originally belonged to George Burt, local boy made good, who made his money helping his uncle John Mowlem in London.  If the surname sounds familiar it is because uncle founded  Mowlems, one of the biggest Victorian civil contractors which survives to this day.
George had dreams of putting Swanage on the map and of his schemes was to create an upmarket housing development at Durleston.

The centre piece Durlston Castle was built in a typical Victorian mish-mash of styles. Alas, the castle was the only part of the plan ever to be realised. 

...or Italian Rennaisance?

Burt also arrived in Swanage with a whole bootful of large architectural antiques picked up from Mowlem developments from around the Victorian capital. These he  sprinkled around Swanage and explain the appearance of typical London cast iron bollards that are dotted incongruously around the castle grounds.

Durleston has recently been the subject of a brilliant piece of renovation with the castle now restored to its full glory, serving as an excellent interpretation centre and cafe.

The view from the cafe terrace is stunning, on a sunny day you really could imagine yourself sipping your cappuccino in Amalfi. 

Below the castle stands an iconic giant stone globe also installed by Burt and subject of a million happy holiday snaps over the last century.

The cliff path winds on past the quaintly titled Tilly Whim caves, in reality old quarry workings. These were once open to the public but are now unfortunately deemed unsafe. Beyond the view encompasses the whole of the Purbecks, while at your feet soft, springy turf beckons you to stretch out and simply...be.

Durleston lighthouse

Dorset Cycling- Flying along the Purbecks by mountain bike

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This cycle begins and ends in the free National Trust car park above Ringstead rather than the lower seaside car park.

Mysterious carvings

The views are exhilarating; with Portland silhouetted in the distance one way and the swooping and dipping chalk coastline of the Purbecks in the other.

View from bridleway Portland on the Horizon

The route is easy to follow and the gradients mostly gentle. There are a few short on-road stretches Take care especially on the short busy stretch of the A353.

If you are feeling energetic bring your kayak and see some of the best of the Purbecks from another angle. (see here)

Distance approx. 15 miles

Time around 3-4hrs
Ordnance Survey Explorer OL15 Purbeck and South Dorset

Distance 15 miles 
Time around 4hrs

Distance 15 miles 
Time around 4hrDistance 15 miles 

Time around 4hrs

Circular walk via Flowers Barrow, Worbarrow Tout and Tyneham

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7 miles 4hrs approx. OS OL15
Tyneham circuit 4.5 miles 2,5hrs approx.

This walk forms part of the Lulworth Range walks. As such, public access varies click here for access dates.)

This walk is glorious and encapsulates the essence of the Purbecks.
It begins at Povington car park (maybe the best situated car park in Britain, and it’s free!) If you’re feeling lazy go no further, this is about as good a picnic spot as you can get.



The walk follows the chalk ridge to Flowers Barrow, the remains of an Iron Age hill fort which clings precariously to the cliff edge. From its ramparts you look down on the curving sweep of Worbarrow Bay ending in the tiny peninsular of Worbarrow Tout. The bay is a favourite spot for passing yachts to drop anchor as the beach is only accessible by foot or by water. Your route splits here; the detour takes you to the fascinating deserted village of Tyneham. Alternately continue along the cliff edge for stunning views in all directions. After dropping down into the valley climb up again to follow the ridge to the car park.

Literary Dorset 1 - Tall tale. Tall author

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Painting by N. C. Wyeth, father of Andrew Wyeth

Moonfleet is a tale which has been adapted many times for television and radio. The book itself, though, deserves to be read. Whatever age you are you won't be disappointed.

The book's author, J. Mead Faulkner, was really just a part-timer, writing only three books in his lifetime. His day job, though, took him to the top of the tree, or yardarm, as the Chairman of Armstrong Whitworth Co., one of Britain's major armaments manufacturers; a post he held throughout the duration of the First World War. 

He also reached some pretty dizzying heights physically, measuring  6' 9" in his socks.

Moonfleet draws upon memories of Falkner's childhood in the Purbecks and weaves a colourful yarn of smugglers and smuggling. 

The story begins in the small hamlet of Fleet, near Abbotsbury, which stands next to the large expanse of brackish water behind the Chesil Bank also named the Fleet.

In the following excerpt  the book's young hero, John Trenchard, finds his way into the burial vault of the notorious Blackbeard.

He is forced to hide when he is disturbed by a group of villagers using the vault for their clandestine smuggling activities...

'Sitting where I was, I lit my candle once more, and then clambered across that great coffin which, for two hours or more, had been a mid-wall of partition between me and danger. But to get out of the niche was harder than to get in; for now that I had a candle to light me, I saw that the coffin, though sound enough to outer view, was wormed through and through, and little better than a rotten shell. So it was that I had some ado to get over it, not daring either to kneel upon it or to bring much weight to bear with my hand, lest it should go through. And now having got safely across, I sat for an instant on that narrow ledge of the stone shelf which projected beyond the coffin on the vault side, and made ready to jump forward on to the floor below. And how it happened I know not, but there I lost my balance, and as I slipped the candle flew out of my grasp. Then I clutched at the coffin to save myself, but my hand went clean through it, and so I came to the ground in a cloud of dust and splinters; having only got hold of a wisp of seaweed, or a handful of those draggled funeral trappings which were strewn about this place. The floor of the vault was sandy; and so, though I fell crookedly, I took but little harm beyond a shaking; and soon, pulling myself together, set to strike my flint and blow the match into a flame to search for the fallen candle. Yet all the time I kept in my fingers this handful of light stuff; and when the flame burnt up again I held the thing against the light, and saw that it was no wisp of seaweed, but something black and wiry. For a moment, I could not gather what I had hold of, but then gave a start that nearly sent the candle out, and perhaps a cry, and let it drop as if it were red-hot iron, for I knew that it was a man's beard.'

Download it free for Kindle      

Holiday in a folly

High above Kimmeridge Bay, in the Purbecks, stands Clavell Tower, a folly built 1831 by the Reverend John Richards in an era when people who possessed money also possessed an equal amount of style. It stands perilously close to the cliff edge, making the most of the stunning coastline; so close that it was in danger of dropping off altogether. Then along came a saviour, the Landmark Trust, who, after rebuilding the tower 80 feet further inland, set about renovation. The result, unveiled in 2008 is now available for all to hire.

I really rate the Landmark Trust. I've stayed in a number of their properties and have never been disappointed yet. 
The Trust, closely affiliated with the National Trust, saves and renovates architectural gems too small for larger charities to deal with. After making them habitable, they breathe life into them once again by making them available as holiday properties. 
Staying in one is not a cheap option but it really is a case of getting what you pay for; the quality of renovation is always meticulous, the architecture fascinating and the stay unforgettable. They have around three properties in Dorset, many more across Britain and several abroad. They are currently restoring the late John Fowles home in Lyme Regis a Georgian maritime villa.
www.landmarktrust.org.uk